Greenland blog 17: a snapshot of industry

The edge of Maniitsoq, Greenland. Image copyright Margaret Sharrow, 2008.

These storage tanks on the edge of Maniitsoq held oil and or diesel, I assume, vital resources that like so much else in Greenland, must be imported. (I didn’t know at the time, but Maniitsoq is the operational base for Polaroil.) The cost of food, especially fresh fruit and vegetables, was astronomical, and being a shoestring budget traveller required careful shopping. However, one surprise was the price of petrol and diesel, which was far less than in Britain, more on a par with the United States. Either it was little taxed, or state subsidised. In any event there wasn’t very far to drive, even in Nuuk, though it is true that people tended to leave their motors running during short stops. During the winter this is essential, because it takes such an effort to start a motor when the temperature is well below zero. However, it is a habit that carries over into the summer months, as I saw in Nanortalik. 

Industry in Greenland is in the process of changing as new prospects open with global warming. This may be an unexpected statement in the light of global warming generally presented by the media as being nothing but a disaster for arctic regions. However, it was apparent from Suluk, Air Greenland’s trilingual inflight magazine, that new opportunities are presented by possibilities for Arctic Sea shipping routes from Siberia to Canada, which will inevitably dock at Greenland. Furthermore, new developments in mining in Greenland are on the cards, with new mines opened or projected to open to exploit resources such as lead and zinc. There are also possibilities for offshore oil drilling, though after BP’s experiences in the Gulf of Mexico, it will pose a huge technical challenge and must be approached with great caution. 

Aside from fishing, there are other smaller industries in Greenland such as production of high-end fashion, particularly using local materials such as seal fur, and  book publishing. And, of course, there is a substantial income from tourism, which I was contributing to in my small way. 

30 August 2008 08:27 recalled 21 January 2011

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What (Not) to Wear in Greenland

Approaching Paamiut, warmly dressed!

what I wore

• thermal ski trousers
• quick-dry thin trousers
• puffa down jacket with a fake fur outer
• ski mittens
• fleece gloves
• wool and cashmere knit beret purchased in Shetland
• low-cut hiking boots (no ankle support)
• long sleeved cotton tops by day, cotton t-shirts by night
• thick cotton socks
• sealskin insoles purchased in Nuuk
• fleece
• Buffalo sleeping bag
  

what I packed (and didn't use much or at all)

• mosquito repellent (fortunately, it was too late in the season!)
• thermal trousers (except on the deck of the coastal ferry)
• thinly padded reflective camping mat (used in Copenhagen airport)
• bivvy bag (thank God I didn't have to do emergency camping!)
• camp stove without gas canister (what was I thinking? that I would cook outdoors?)
• head torch (flashlight) (loaned by the same person who loaned bivvy bag and stove)
• compass (but wouldn't have gone hiking without it)
• mobile phone (used as alarm clock, but not for calls. The saga of telephones in Greenland deserves its own page.)
  
  
  

Nanortalik e-mail 2

A little bear named Nanok has been keeping me company. He is attached to the keychain of the spare key to the hostel and was hanging in the entranceway when I came in. (Nanok is Greenlandic for 'polar bear'.)

I am finding the Greenlandic cemeteries to be very photogenic. The standard burial is a white wooden cross, extraordinary in a country where wood is so precious. Although near Nanortalik there is Greenland's only proper forest. I have seen trees growing, however, draped like a shawl over the rocks, the largest about three feet across, also some growing against the houses like bushes, about four feet tall. Anyway the cemeteries are colourful with loads of plastic flowers.

I met a nice couple from Bath at the cruise ship show and they were puzzled as to what the building was there for, not realising until I explained it was the community sports centre, and used by the school, just like the leisure centres in Britain. Other amazing / amsuing / interesting comments from tourists:

I stepped off the boat and thought, this is just like the Nortwestern Territories and Yukon with the Innuit. (a Canadian)

Did you make these yourself? (traditional clothes) Now is this embroidery? (touching her leg) And is this seal? (touching her waist) These are just lovely!

Can I have a picture of you? Can I take a picture?

(in the sod hut) This is so warm! This is so cute! This is so cozy! Watch your head!

One man looked at me and said, 'Hard livin'!'

Now do you wear these all the time?

This is just such a beautiful country!

Can I just have one picture of you?

We started in Norway, and sailed up the coast, then the Faroes, then Iceland, and now here.

Can I take your picture?